The first thing we noticed and which is something common in these F/W collection is probably the lack in innovation. Except for a few designers (see McQueen, Comme des Garcons) everyone kept a very sober style, with essential lines and dark colours (quite sad L). Is this an effect of the economical crisis?? Or the willing to return to a situation of security and stability (and this would explain the revival-mania seen in these collections), even if the price to pay is to sacrifice creativity?? We think that it’s a good thing to seek for stability, but not if this leads to mediocrity.
Another critic we have to move to these collections is that many designers still haven’t understood what F/W means. Do you think you could go out in January with snow and ice all dressed in chiffon, Mrs Anna Molinari?? Another thing: who could ever go around with fur coat and naked legs?? There’s no situation in which this kind of outfit is acceptable: if you are indoor with the heating on 27° the naked legs are ok, but what about the fur? And if you are outdoor you fur will be perfect, but your naked legs will freeze. Ok, it's fashion, but be realistic!
What about revival??We’ve read the Glamour special about trends, and we ca
n now read: “Fifties. Sixties, Seventies”. We're wondering what happened. Perhaps it has to with the thing we were talking about before, the desire of return to the successes of the past and to avoid risks. See Gucci, for example: after aband
oning the crazy and sometimes excessive creations of Tom Ford, they have chosen "tradition" as their key word and they have re-edited with success one of the classics of Gucci, the Bamboo Bag. But sometimes this revival wave becomes excessive, because when you pick up trend from the past you’re supposed to make it more innovative and stylish making little changes, which hasn’t been done by Louis Vuitton, for example, with its Fifties-inspired dresses.
After all these critics, there is a thing for which I’m (Dodi) very happy, and it is the drop in the use of Tartan. For years and years every year it has been the dominating trand, and every time I saw it in the magazine’s first page about F/W fashion I just thought “AGAIN!!!”, therefore now I’m glad to see that it is used less.
La prima cosa che abbiamo notato e che è un punto in comune in queste collezioni autunno/inverno è probabilmente la mancanza di innovazione. A parte alcuni stilisti (vedi Mcqueen e Comme De Garçons) tutti quanti hanno mantenuto uno stile veramente sobrio con linee essenziali e colori scuri (abbastanza triste :( ).
E' un effetto della crisi? O è la volontà di ritornare a una situazione di sicurezza e stabilità (e questo spiegherebbe la revival-mania vista in queste collezioni) anche se il prezzo da pagare è sacrificare la creatività? Noi crediamo che sia buona cosa cercare stabilità, ma non se ciò conduce alla mediocrità.
Un'altra critica che dobbiamo muovere a queste collezioni è che molti stilisti non hanno ancora capito cosa vuol dire autunno inverno. Lei pensa che potrebbe uscire in Gennaio con la neve e il ghiaccio tutta vestita di chiffon signora Anna Molinari? Un'altra cosa: chi potrebbe mai andare in giro in pelliccia a gambe nude? Non c'è nessuna situazione in cui questo tipo di abbigliamento è accettabile: se sei all'interno col riscaldamento acceso a 27 gradi le gambe nude sono ok, ma la pelliccia? E se sei all'aperto la tua pelliccia sarà perfetta ma le tue gambe nude congeleranno. Ok è la moda, ma siamo realistici!
